It has recently come to my attention in turning 20 that I should invest in looking 20. Evidence of my aging is emerging in wrinkles and freckles. A dermatologist has already recommended me a retinol and my 23-year-old cousin is lamenting preventative Botox. In a society obsessed with youth and beauty, how are women allowed to age?
Societal Disdain for Aging Women
It’s hard not to dread aging when most media that Americans consume ignores and abandons older women (Hanssen 2012; Hofmeier 2016). Actresses over 40 struggle to find work as their beauty is seen to have expired (Guo, 2016). Even then, most married couples on screen include age gaps, with women in their 20s paired with men in their 40s and older (Wilson, 2015). For the past 90 years the average male actor has consistently been 8 years older than the average female actor, and the only time women get more roles is in their 20s (Hanssen, 2012). Intentional or not, these movies are pushing the narrative that only young women can possess beauty and Hollywood success.
Aging in society is much harsher for women than for men. Women’s anxiety over the process are often centered on the decline in beauty, health, and fertility the process brings (Barret, 2008). These fears have fueled the cosmetic industry and their efforts to convince women that all they need to prevent wrinkles is a simple cream (Flatt, 2013). This is, of course, an impossible goal, yet one heavily invested in (Grand View Research, 2021). But while the target demographic for these products has historically been middle aged women, the industry is now targeting much younger women (Muise 2010).
Skincare Boom
Smooth, glassy skin has captivated mainstream media as a symbol of health and youth to an obsessive degree. While natural texture and blemishes have traditionally been hidden by makeup, the recent pandemic has changed things. The widespread use of masks made basic beauty staples such as foundation or lipstick impractical, so while interest in most makeup decreased the demand for skin care products has skyrocketed, especially when it comes to anti-aging (Choi 2022; Shanbhag 2019).
TikTok deserves a large amount of credit for the growth of skincare in young adults during the pandemic, as hashtags related to skincare and dermatology have garnered 3.9 billion views (Nguyen, 2021). Educational content is being dispersed by unlicensed, unsponsored creators, including influencer Isabelle Lux who promotes mouth taping at night, silicone patches, and training yourself to stop using facial muscles to avoid wrinkling to her (currently) 465.2k followers (https://www.tiktok.com/@isabelle.lux?lang=en).
Changing Attitudes on Cosmetic Procedures
Young women have been increasingly buying into the anti-aging industry over the past few decades and the market is predicted to continue growing (Mili 2016). But while older generations viewed creams and moisturizers as sufficient to combat aging, the younger generation has turned to more invasive medical procedures (Muise 2010). Botox for example, saw a 459% increase from 2000 to 2020 (American Society of Plastic Surgeons, 2020).
Dermatology has long been a lucrative medical field, but there’s a growing split between its medical and cosmetic components. Studies have found the wait times for cosmetic dermatologists are significantly lower than for urgent medical dermatologists, implying that it’s easier to get Botox than to get melanoma testing (Yadav 2016). People are so invested in the need to look younger that it’s having real consequences in the healthcare setting as cosmetics compete with medical procedures.
As women age and their looks decline, they can face real consequences in finding romantic relationships or even jobs (Nuemark, 2017). Appearance is capital in the workforce and as appearances decline with age, discrimination increases (Jyrkinen, 2012). “Successful aging” is important for women to maintain their value in the workforce and society, and it only serves to benefit the corporations selling these products.
Even with the new culture wave of female empowerment, aging poorly is still viewed as a sort of moral failure (Flatt, 2013). Older women generally find acceptance with the process even with feelings of invisibility and irrelevance from society, as caring for physical health surpasses the need to maintain physical appearance (Hofmeier 2016). Aging is still treated like disease instead of the natural process it is, and with an older, affluent population the demand for medical and cosmetic fixes for aging will only increase (Ebrahim, 2002).
Works Cited
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